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2010 Suzuki Kizashi

October 16th, 2009

The 2010 Suzuki Kizashi is the new sport sedan from Suzuki.  The sedan is supposed to be all-wheel drive with a 3.6 litre 6-cylinder engine.  The car is going to be released in both automatic and manual transmissions.

This suzuki might be able to compete with some of the sportier luxury cars from audi, bmw and mercedes.  While still considerably cheaper than the BMW 5-series, this midsize sedan will be a close competitor.

One question that remains is will Suzuki be able to pull it off?  This is a big step for the small japaneese car manufacturer, and many are excited to see what materializes.

3rd Generation Accord Engine Specs

June 5th, 2009

3rd Generation Accord Engine Specs:

  • 86-87 dx, lx 12 valve sohc 4 cyl 2bbl carbureted hp 98@5500rpm
    torque 110@3500rpm

  • 86-87 lxi 12 valve sohc 4cyl electronic fuel injection hp 110@5500rpm torque 114@4500rpm

  • 88-89 dx,lx 12 valve sohc 4cyl 2bbl carbureted hp 98@5500rpm torque 109@3500rpm

  • 8-89 lxi 12 valve sohc 4cyl mulipoint fuel injection hp for 88 lxi 110@5500rpm 89 lxi 120@5800rpm torque for 88 lxi 114@4500 89 lxi 122@4000rpm

    For 89 sei same as 89 lxi  in japan the 3rd generation Accord is a DOHC.

Aftermarket Honda Brakes

June 3rd, 2009

  • ATE “Super Blue” Racing Brake Fluid
    The ATE “Super Blue” Racing Brake Fluid is a newly developed DOT 4 premium non-synthetic brake fluid with a wet boiling point of 400 degrees fahrenheit (a full 20 degrees higher than regular DOT 5 synthetic). The high wet boiling point temperature prevents formation of vapor bubbles resulting from retardation of the drop in the wet boiling point. The ATE “Super Blue” allows up to 3 years of safe operation before changing. Available in 1 liter bottle which is enough for at least one complete brake job.

  • AXXIS (formerly Repco) Metal Master Brake Pads
    Axxis Metallic Brake PadsAxxis Brake Pads will give the performance enthusiast superior braking power over the stock friction pads. The metal composition of the pads will give you that extra bite, more effective braking power at higher heat ranges, and reduced brake fading. These pads are great for the street. They don’t need to be heated up to a higher temperature range in order for it to work at it’s peak optimal efficiency. The pads will generate minimal dust build up and have a very minimal wear rate. Works great with your drilled brake rotors!

  • Brembo Big Brake Conversion Kits by Stillen
    Brembo Big Brake KitBrembo has developed a new line of high performance brake systems to replace the OEM calipers, rotors, and pads on high performance street cars. This upgrade will allow the owner to have higher braking performance capabilities. As some of you have experienced with performance vehicles that have been modified to extreme horsepower levels, stock brake systems often fall precariously short in their ability to stop repeatedly from high speeds. Known as fading, it is certainly an unwanted characteristic under any driving circumstance.

  • Motul 5.1 Brake Fluid - 509°F dry boiling point / 365°F wet boiling point
    Polyglycol based brake fluid, exceeds the highest DOT specifications. For use in all systems that require a DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 fluid. The container is filled with NITROGEN gas to increase shelf/storage life and eliminate contamination while factory sealed. (Note: Do not mix this product with silicone brake fluids.)

  • Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600 - 585°F dry boiling point / 421°F wet boiling point
    The ultimate high performance polyglycol brake fluid. It far exceeds the standards of DOT3 and DOT 4. The package is filled with NITROGEN to increase shelf/storage life and eliminate contamination while factory sealed. Extremely high dry boiling point helps prevent vapor lock and brake fade during hard use.

  • Power Slot Directional Slotted Brake Rotors
    Power Slot Directional Slotted Brake RotorsPower Slot Rotors are designed to maximize your braking performance while staying with the original equipment size rotors and brake pads. With its directional swept slots, the brake system is able to dissipate the hot brake gases that are emitted under all braking conditions. Results are better braking without compromising the structural integrity of the Brembo base rotors.

  • Power Stop High Performance Drilled Brake Rotors:
    Power Stop Directional Drilled Brake RotorsThese drilled brake rotors are now available for a wide variety of Japanese import application. These rotors are the exact same size as the factory rotors. This allows you to upgrade your rotors without upgrading to very costly brake calipers. Cross-drilled rotors will eliminate brake fade and also enhance braking in wet conditions. After several stops, spirited driving, and under emergency braking, they will perform better than your original brake components. Each rotor is drawn to scale and engineered with a specific drilled pattern. This data is then programmed onto a CNC (Computer Numerical Controlled) Machine. All holes are radiused to the correct wear limit. Radiusing, unlike chamfering, provides a smooth transition from rotor surface to the cooling holes. This reduces stress points and allows superior pad performance. All rotors are constantly checked for accurate balancing and are designed with a unidirectional pattern. A pair must consist of a left and a right rotor. All rotors are cadmium plated to military specifications for a high performance look while also protecting the machined areas from the elements. The Power Stop cross drilled rotors have been designed to be used on high performance vehicles but they are also extremely effective for practical street.

  • SMC Kwik Stop Big Brake Kits
    Cars that have been modified to higher levels of performance can often the stock braking system fall short on stopping power. Braking forces needed to stop a typical car are generally as much as 4 times the horsepower of the engine. The Kwik Stop System will provide improved braking through larger size cross-drilled brake rotors, calipers, pads, and stainless braided brakelines.

  • SMC Stainless Braided Brake Lines
    SMC Stainless Braided Brake LinesSMC is a local based California Tuner that offers these attractive high performance stainless braided brake lines. Stainless steel products are by far the highest quality material available in the market today. The qualities and properties of stainless steel allows these brake lines to resist heat build up, to prevent condensation from occuring, to eliminate possibility of hose cracking or bursting, and to allow maximum flow of pressure to the brake calipers when the brake pedal is depressed. Utilizing the best lines and fittings available from Goodrich, SMC has matched these stainless braided to the factory lines perfectly. All lines come ready to install and have all the correct mounting brackets to utilize the factory mounts. All lines will come in color coated synthetic skin to add an attractive and aggressive appeal.

CRANE CAMS - Ignition Amplifiers & Ignition Coils

June 3rd, 2009

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  • HI-6 Ignition Amplifier w/ built-in Rev Limiter
    crn-hi6.gif (15127 bytes)The Crane HI-6 is a supplemental ignition, multi spark, capacitive discharge, electronic amplifier that integrates in with the factory ignition system. You run the ignition amplifier in series with your factory ignition coil (whether external or internal). By doing so, the amplifier is able to hold a reserve charge inside and use it under normal and aggressive driving conditions. The reserve charge will supply a higher energy spark which will not only give you a cleaner and thorough burn of air-fuel mixture, but it will give you an increase in horsepower and throttle response.  The Fireball HI-6 utilizes the latest state-of-the-art technology, and when used with the recommended Crane coil, delivers a spark gap crn-hi6b.gif (18244 bytes)current three times greater than that of the competitive systems and almost ten times greater than that of the stock ignition!  This high spark gap current produces fast growth of the initial flame kernel and a stable flame front, for greatly increased combustion efficiency.  Dyno tests shows significant power gains that result in reduced oval track lap times, lower drag strip ET’s, and higher MPH.  All units come with Crane’s unique sequential rev limiting technology that fires a spark to all cylinders equally at the rev limit. This will virtually eliminate engine and drive train stress. You can adjust the limit in increments of 100 RPM anywhere from 500 RPM to 9,900 RPM. All amplifiers works even better when combined with Crane’s External Ignition Coil.
  • HI-6 DI² Ignition Amplifier for Distributorless Engine Applications w/ built-in Rev Limiter
    crn-hi6di2.gif (22114 bytes)The Crane Fireball HI-6DI² delivers a spark gap current up to four times greater than the stock ignition.  This high spark gap current promotes fast growth of the initial flame kernel into a stable flame front, for greatly increased combustion efficiency and performance

    The Fireball HI-6DI² is designed for distributorless applications such as the Mitsubishi Eclipse.  It can also be used with most other four cylinder distributorless engines with two coils.  (Note: This unit is not compatible with six cylinder engines.)

    The Fireball HI-6DI² system is the most technologically advanced member of the Crane HI-6 family and includes dual coil outputs (for distributorless applications), two stage rev limiter and timing retard capability.  The timing retard feature is especially useful when raising the boost level on turbocharged applications or when adding a nitrous oxide system.

  • HI-6 TR Ignition Amplifier w/ built-in Rev Limiter & Timing Retard Controller
    The Crane Fireball HI-6TR System combines the proven ignition advantage of the Fireball HI-6 plus easily adjusted timing retard capabilities!  The HI-6TR is designed for applications that
    crn-trc1.gif (10062 bytes)crn-hi6tr.gif (24155 bytes) require driver adjustable, externally switched, or boost proportional timing retard.  The HI-6TR works especially well with nitrous oxide systems and turbo or supercharged applications.  When used with the correct Crane Coil (PS91 or PS92), the HI-6TR delivers a spark gap current three times greater than competitive systems and almost ten times greater than stock systems!  This high spark gap current promotes fast growth of the initial flame kernel into a stable flame front, for significantly increased combustion efficiency!  Dyno tests with the Fireball HI-6TR show sizeable power gains.  HI-6TR systems include the main capacitive discharge ignition box and under dash mounted, driver adjustable, timing control module.

  • PS91 External Ignition Coil
    crn-ps91.gif (11022 bytes)Crane Fireball PS91 Ignition Coil is general ignition coil upgrade.  It produces up to 70% more spark energy than stock coils with outstanding reliability.  The Crane Fireball PS91 coil can be used with the Crane Fireball Ignition Amplifiers for added performance or it can be used just as a replacement for the factory coil.  The Crane PS91 Coil are designed for use both on the street and at the track.

PS92 External Ignition Coil
crn-ps92.gif (13508 bytes)The Crane Fireball PS92 Ignition Coil is specifically designed for use with Crane Fireball “HI” series ignition amplifiers used in serious racing and Pro/Street applications.  It is the most powerful coil available.  These coils produce more spark energy than any similar coil available, and must be matched with the correct Crane Fireball ignition for maximum performance and reliability.

How to Modify the 3rd Generation Accord

June 3rd, 2009

Air Filters:

They are available in stock replacement form and cone. The cone filter ads usually claims more power, but you will feel negligible performance differences. A dyno or track is the place to experiment with these differences.

Stock replacement / air box type: PRO: Good for true ram air on many Honda models, if the right headlight is removed. CON: Not as “cool” as cone. My preference: K & N - needs periodic oiling Price: approx. $30
Cone type: PRO: More air. K & N brand, can be used with the “intake pipe” see below. CON: May intake warm or hot air. Makes loud sucking noises.
Cool air is important, but don’t get crazy and make a $12,000 water vacuum of your car.
My preferences: K & N - needs periodic oiling (Flows less, filters better) Price: approx. $80
HKS - wash with soap & water, no oil. But expensive. (Flows more, filters less) Price: approx. $190
Filters found to loose no HP on the dyno: HKS Powerflow, Greddy, and Unifilter.
“Basically, we have found that all of the cone filters yield a couple of ponies at the flywheel no matter which brand. [When taking out] the factory intake resonator that lives under the factory airbox (behind the right lower turn signal), the car [just] feels better.”

Exhaust Systems:

Settle on a quality fabrication not the fashionable brand name of the time.
PRO: Small amount of real power added. Sounds and feels like more power. Necessary basis for other modifications to function with.
CON: None
My preference: Find what works for you, design you own with a good muffler.
Exhaust found to put out the best HP on the dyno: DC Sports, Greddy, and RSR.
It should be noted that for those going for maximum horsepower, an Dynomax Ultra-flow muffler with a custom 2-1/4″ pipe will produce more top end power, but at the cost of some bottom end power and good looks.

Wheels and Tires:

Use the plus one rule. What is the correct wheel and tire combination? Mugen recommends a 15 x 6 rim for best handling. Large and wide wheels (16″ x 6.5″ or 7″) with super low profile tires are definitely not the correct set-up. While this setup certainly looks great, having to deal with the downfalls such as darting, poor tracking and straight line stability far outweigh good looks.
Brand: Almost any Japanese import brand. Price: $1500 - $2500 (wheels and tires) Link: Dynamic Autosports => [Wheels & Tires]

Headers:

Header Designs include the 4 into 1 and Tri-Y. Although a 4 into 1 design will produce more ultimate horsepower, this only happens at very high RPM and is suitable for on track racing only. A Tri-Y will consistently produce more power throughout a broader RPM band. The best Honda headers are Tri-Y tuned. They can be identified by having cylinder 1 and 4 pipes join slowly into one pipe, and 2 and 3 pipes join. These two then join into one pipe just before hitting the cat.
Especially effective with a cam. Many headers are now 50 state legal!
PRO: Excellent pickup, especially with at high RPM.
CON: Very noticeable under the hood.
My preference: DC Fabrication - ceramic Price: approx. $250 (www.cyberauto.com) - $350

Cams:

Cam A huge number of cams are available. The cam increases valve lift and duration to give the engine more volume and time to breathe, especially at higher RPMS.
Most effective with a header.
PRO: Excellent pickup, especially with at high RPM.
CON: May void the factory warranty. Can destroy the valves and/or head if improperly installed. May cause decrease in MPG. May cause “smogability” problems.
My preference: JG Engine Dynamics 301 Price: approx. $200

Replacing the rubber Intake hose:

Intake pipe Replaces the rubber hose from the air box to the throttle body. It is rumored that the rubber hose may actually shrink or pinch in high horsepower applications, especially when hot. A metal pipe also allows a smooth path for air to flow through the throttle body. If you can’t make your own, get one custom made.
Brand: no recommendation. Price: approx. $80.00

Throttle body:

This involves the increasing diameter of the main port and throttle plate. More air is able to flow through the body and thus the engine produces more top-end power. I like to think of the increase of diameter inside the throttle body as having an effect similar to allowing the throttle pedal to move further through the floor.
Warning: Do not increase diameter over 4mm: Air velocity will drop and poor idle quality and loss of low RPM torque will occur. Idle problems may indicate an incorrectly set TPS, adjust per the Honda shop manual. Ensure the intake casting diameter is port-matched to the new throttle body diameter.
Brand: JG Price: approx. $160

Port / Polish:

This involves the increasing of diameter and smoothing in the head ports and intake casting. More air is able to flow through and thus the engine produces more top-end power.
Warning: Ensure intake casting diameter matches head intake port diameters. Take care in replacing the timing belt (don’t destroy the valve-train!)
Brand: Trusted Honda specializing machinist. Caution: A bad port job may make your car run slower. Price: approx. $800-900

Performance clutch:

MANDATORY for performance applications. What use is power if it can’t get to the ground? This would be true in high power applications where sticky performance tires are used, and especially with the use of NOS. It was rumored that the Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch is near worthless. The Honda clutch is too compact to have room for the weights, and I haven’t heard any good stories about that clutch. Don’t neglect to have the flywheel resurfaced and the throw-out bearing replaced.
Brand: I was able to purchase a then prototype Centerforce Dual-Puc design, through Jackson Racing. It was a Dual-Friction clutch without the easy engagement side, just two high temperature sides. It was not much heavier to the foot, and proved a “quick-gripper” and held up well to abuse and NOS. There are many good brands available, I’m sure Dynamic Auto Sports, RPS, or AEM, can supply you with a custom clutch that will suit your exact needs. See the FAQ for phone numbers of these shops. Price: approx. $300 + install.

NOS kit:

PROS: Lots of power added. Quick horse power gains are available at the push of a button. With NOS your in a different league.
CONS: Refills are $25. (10lb bottle = 12 runs.) May cause engine damage if used below 3000 RPM or above redline.
Recommendations: You MUST have a performance clutch! Use NGK spark plugs. According to N.O.S. the use of NO2 is only useful where your engine is not efficient. On a Honda that’s in the low Rpm’s, so shift around 5000. Experiment with the shift points, try not to squeeze in 1st gear ’cause all your power is just up in smoke. Don’t get greedy and go above 50% of stock power of the jets. Install a RPM switch so a squeeze cannot be made at RPM’s that will damage the motor. Install a remote bottle opener. (Great on the street!) Think about starting with the multiple jet system instead of the single fogger, in case your gonna get greedy for power.
Brand: Nitrous Oxide Systems. Price: approx. $500

Adjustable cam gear:

This gear allows the adjustment of the timing on the cam. This mod is not very useful on a SOHC (unless the head has been shaved to increase compression). However, on a DOHC the intake and exhaust cam profiles can be changed. This is actually not achievable with a simple cam change. For best results this mod should be dialed in on a dyno. (60k miles? Now is a great time to change the timing belt before that “rubber band” snaps and destroys the valves.)
Brand: Not a riveted stock conversion. Price: approx. $200 ea

The Chip:

The chip should be programmed for your current set of modifications to the car. Besides getting into a dyno and reprogramming session for each modification you add, I’m no longer recommending ANY chips. I’ve seen some of the dyno charts, and I’m not impressed with any chips. After a discussion with Javier at JG Engine Dynamics who is only recommending un-rev limited stock chips, I’m convinced the only worthy chip is a stock curved chip with the RPM limits raised. Apparently Dinan came down to Alhambra, with engineers and EPROM programmers to prove their chips to JG. After several runs on the dyno, a chip finally ‘produced’ power. Well almost, Dinan had put the stocker back in to check that the dyno was operating well. It seems that the stock chip has about as much timing and fuel as would be necessary for almost all Honda application.

Acura TL Specifications

May 3rd, 2009

ENGINEERING
Powertrain     Transverse front engine/front-wheel drive
Compression Ratio     9.8:1
Valvetrain     4 valves per cylinder, belt-driven, single overhead camshaft with Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) system
Engine Block     Aluminum alloy with cast-iron cylinder liners
Cylinder Head     Aluminum alloy
Emission Control     3-way catalytic converter
Battery     12V, maintenance-free
100,000-Mile Tune-Up Interval     No tune-ups for 100,000 miles (see dealer for warranty details)
Redline     6300 rpm
Bore & Stroke     3.50 in x 3.39 in (89 mm x 86 mm)
Engine type     3.2 liter, 24-valve, SOHC V-6
Horsepower     225hp @ 5500 rpm
Torque     216 lbs-ft @ 5000 rpm
Displacement     197 cu in (3210 cc)
Induction System     Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) with 60-mm throttle bore and heated air system
Ignition System     Electronic with dual knock sensors

BODY/SUSPENSION/CHASSIS
Body Type     All-steel unit body
Front Suspension     Independent double-wishbone with coil springs and stabilizer bar
Rear Suspension     Independent multilink double-wishbone with coil springs and stabilizer bar
Shock Absorbers     Gas-pressurized with Acura Progressive Valve technology, front and rear
Steering Type     Speed-sensitive, variable power-assisted, rack-and-pinion
Braking System     Dual-diagonal, power-assisted, 4-wheel disc brakes
Front Discs     Ventilated, 11.8-in (300-mm) diameter, 28-mm rotor thickness
Rear Discs     10.2-in (282-mm) diameter, 9-mm rotor thickness
Parking Brake     Drum in disc type, mechanically actuated on rear wheels
Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)     Acura-designed system with 4 wheel-speed sensors and electronic/hydraulic control unit
Stabilizer Bars     Tubular

Front

27.2 mm diameter x 4.5 mm wall thickness

Rear

18.0 mm diameter solid
Steering Wheel Turns, Lock-to-Lock     3.11
Turning Circle, Curb-to-Curb     36.8
Wheels     Cast-aluminum alloy, 6.5 JJ x 16
Tires     Michelin MXV4, V-Rated, All Season 205/60 R16 91V M+S
Transmission
4-speed automatic transmission with Grade Logic Control, Sequential SportShift™ and lockup torque converter
Ratios (:1)
1st 2.534
2nd 1.502
3rd 0.947
4th 0.608
Reverse 1.846
Final Drive 4.200

CAPACITIES

* EPA Passenger Volume - 96.5 cu ft
* EPA Cargo Volume - 14.3 cu ft
* Fuel Tank - 17.2 U.S. gallons (65.0 liters)
* Crankcase Refill Capacity, including filter - 5.0 U.S. quarts (4.7 liters)
* Cooling System - 7.9 U.S. quarts (7.5 liters)

COMFORT & CONVIENCE

* Power-operated moonroof with tilt feature and sliding shade
* Acura/Bose® Music System with five speakers, AM/FM stereo/casssette, in-dash CD player, Dolby® Dynamic Noise Reduction® (DNR) and anti-theft feature
* Cruise control
* Power windows and door locks
* Theft-deterrent system, with electronic immobilizer
* Keyless entry system
* Automatic Climate Control System
* HomeLink® System
* Auto Day/Night rearview mirror
* Auto-off headlights
* Heated door mirrors
* Steering wheel mounted audio controls
* Cargo net
* Tilt steering column
* Speed-Sensitive Variable intermittent windshield wipers
* Side-window defoggers
* Remote trunk/fuel-filler-door releases
* Sunglasses holder
* Dual overhead map lights
* Lighted trunk, ashtray, lower console, driver’s door switches and ignition switch
* Dual, illuminated, vanity mirrors
* Sun visor side extensions
* Front door storage
* Dual beverage holders/front and rear
* Digital quartz clock
* Outside temperature gauge
* Dual power ports

SEATING & TRIM

* Leather-trimmed seats and door panels
* Leather-wrapped steering wheel
* Simulated wood-grained console and door trim
* Heated front seats
* Driver’s 8-way power seat with adjustable lumbar support
* Front passenger’s 4-way power seat
* Adjustable front seat headrests
* Rear seat headrests
* Front center console with adjustable armrest
* Rear seat center armrest with locking trunk pass-through and dual beverage holders
* Driver’s and passenger’s seatback pockets

EXTERIOR FEATURES

* Xenon high-intensity discharge (HID) headlights
* Heat-rejecting, green-tinted glass
* Dual, body-colored, power-operated, heated outside mirrors
* Protective body-colored side moldings
* Rear window defroster with timer
* Galvanized body panels
* 24-step 3-coat, 3-bake paint process
* Body-colored front and rear bumpers
* Radio antenna printed in rear glass
* Dual-outlet exhaust
* Machine-finished alloy wheels

EXTERIOR DIMENSIONS
Wheelbase     108.1 in (2745 mm)
Track, front     61.2 in (1555 mm)
Track, rear     60.4 in (1535 mm)
Length     192.9 in (4900 mm)
Width     70.3 in (1785 mm)
Height     56.1 in (1425 mm)
Minimum Ground Clearance     5.9 in (150 mm)
Curb Weight     3461 lbs (1570 kg)
3472 lbs (1575 kg) with Navigation System
Weight Distribution, % front/rear     62/38

INTERIOR DIMENSIONS
Front     Rear
Head room     39.9 in (1013 mm)     36.8 in (935 mm)
Leg room     42.4 in (1077 mm)     35.0 in (889 mm)
Hip room     56.0 in (1422 mm)     55.0 in (1397 mm)
Shoulder room     56.2 in (1427 mm)     55.7 in (1415 mm)

MAXX Front mounted Intake Systems (FMIS)

April 27th, 2009

maxxarticle1

Performance… there’s not that many add-ons you can use to make your Honda more powered. In fact, the basics have been the same for the last 5 or 10 years now. This restriction - if you want to call it that - is what incites all the new designs to existing add-ons.

We had a chance to interview the creator of the newest innovation to air intake systems - MAXX FMIS. In our Tech Community we’ve noticed that many of you have questions regarding this new product.

Purehonda: How did Maxx FMIS get started, what are your goals and who’s idea was the FMIS?
Jordan: Maxx Performance Systems, inc. started in Miami, about 2 years ago. Basically the company was started based
on the FMIS. I thought of the idea about 2 and a half years ago, and from that point on my goal was to design and market this product. The first year or so was dedicated to developing the FMIS, we have tested the product extensively, and gone through a lot of trial and error.

It finally was at the point where we felt comfortable releasing it to the public. Since then it has grown and grown, I opened a shop here in Miami where we sell, market, and install the FMIS. We also are testing and developing new products. Maxx Performance Systems is a company that designs only tested and proven innovative new products like the FMIS, and we will be releasing new products all just as revolutionary.

Purehonda: What are the advantages of the FMIS?
Jordan: The FMIS is an intake system designed to FORCE air into your engine. Most cold air intake systems locate the filter in a covered area, shielding it from wind. The FMIS relocates the filter to your front bumper opening, allowing air to be forced directly into it. In turn providing your engine with a huge amount of air at higher speeds which cannot be matched without having the filter in an exposed area.

Due to this, the filter will become dirty faster, which is why we supply the systems with a removable lexan window, this window will shield the filter from rain and debris during regular driving conditions. The window can be easily removed at any time by simply removing the 4 twist fasteners which mount it in place.

While the window is installed, air is induced through 2 vents, one on the top, and one on the bottom. Performance with the lexan window
installed is equivalent to your average cold air intake system. You have the advantage of forced air at higher speeds, plus the safety of a sheltered air induction system. You get the best of both worlds.

Purehonda: What type of HP gains are you talking about?
Jordan: At speeds over 65 mph on 1.6 DOHC, the FMIS begins to produce positive pressurized air going into your intake manifold, producing horsepower gains well over 10HP at higher speeds.

Purehonda: What about water induction is that a problem with the Maxx performance intake?
Jordan: We have tested the FMIS with rain extensively here in Miami. We have never had a problem with it at all. The lexan window will shield the filter from all rain and debris, while still providing a very good amount of airflow.

Even when the lexan window is removed and you enter rain, as long as the filter is properly oiled it will not allow any water to absorb into it, rain will simply bead and drip off. The only real risk would be to fully submerge the FMIS in water. Given that you do not rev the engine while the FMIS is submerged it will simply be shut off, and water will not enter your engine. We have tested this subject very much, and have not encountered any problems.

Purehonda: How easy is the FMIS to maintain?
Jordan: The FMIS is very much maintenance free, besides keeping the filter clean, with a K&N filter cleaner kit. Here in Miami, we have had the system on vehicles now for well over a year and a half, still going without any problems.

Purehonda: Anymore advancements to be made to this product?
Jordan: We will soon be offering full carbon fiber tubing as an option for Honda civics. We also will have many more applications available very soon. We can also do custom systems, however we do need the vehicle in to be here in our shop for measurements and testing.

Purehonda: What has you done to ensure the quality of your intakes?
Jordan: The FMIS is manufactured with only the highest quality materials. It has been tested and developed extensively to ensure
the highest performance gains available from a cold air induction system. Maxx Performance Systems will always make sure that our customers are happy with our products, and if there is ever a problem we will be more than happy to fix it.

We hope that some of your questions were answered here. We think this is an A+ product. For it’s main advantage is… it has great HP gains and the disadvantage - getting dust/moisture in - is controllable by using the Lexan glass.

Maxx Fims, said they we send the product for one of our Project Rides (Sponsored Members) to test. You can be sure if this happens we will have a review of it for you. Want to buy your Maxx Fmis? Got to their web site, click the “Purehonda.com members only” button and purchase yours at special low prices!

Struts Vs. Coilovers

April 27th, 2009

Here’s my out look on the whole struts VS. coilover war…

Progressive vs. Constant spring rate:

Progressive springs are made for a more comfortable ride quality, whereas constant rates are for the more serious enthusiast. With progressive rate springs, if you hit little bumps, the spring is made to absorb those more like stock springs (softer) so the ride stays semi-comfortable. If you corner hard with your car and you’re putting more stress on the springs for them to compress, they will compress less. Supposedly, at high speeds, the springs will compress a little and you will get better handling. Most sport springs come in progressive rate and many race springs come in constant rate. If you imagine looking at a spring and the coils are evenly spaced out, you can think of this as a constant spring rate. If you modify the spring so that as you go from the bottom to the top, the coils are spaced a little bit less, then this is (basically) a progressive rate spring. The little bumps will be absorbed by the softer coils, the hard turn will be held in by the stiffer coils. This is much more practical since the spring basically meets the needs of the road.

Coil-Overs: the solution to all problems??

Coil-overs are an adjustable spring and strut combination that gives you the ability to adjust the actual height of your car. The spring sits on a little adjustable perch that can be adjusted up and down, by simply screwing a little piece up and down and locking it in place. Think of this as your spring and strut sitting on a large screw that can be adjusted up and down. Every coil-over that I’ve heard of uses a constant spring rate which is one of the downsides to using them. The obvious advantage is that your car can be raised or lowered without going to a shop. Simply jack up that wheel, remove the locking mechanism and turn the screw up or down. This is great if you want your car slammed, but want to be able to raise it up if you need. If your car is too low, then many places cannot get it on a lift to work on it, so you’re kind of stuck with a broken (but nice looking) car. You might want to raise your car a little for winter… or for a trip to the city… whatever the case, coil-overs are a very good solution to the lowering needs of enthusiasts. The downsides to using coil-overs include the fact that they are more expensive and that, after a lot of use, the threads on the coil-over can wear out. Some coil-overs come with a spring and a strut (more expensive), others come as a kit, where you attach them to your existing strut/shock.


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