Air Filters:
They are available in stock replacement form and cone. The cone filter ads usually claims more power, but you will feel negligible performance differences. A dyno or track is the place to experiment with these differences.
Stock replacement / air box type: PRO: Good for true ram air on many Honda models, if the right headlight is removed. CON: Not as “cool” as cone. My preference: K & N - needs periodic oiling Price: approx. $30
Cone type: PRO: More air. K & N brand, can be used with the “intake pipe” see below. CON: May intake warm or hot air. Makes loud sucking noises.
Cool air is important, but don’t get crazy and make a $12,000 water vacuum of your car.
My preferences: K & N - needs periodic oiling (Flows less, filters better) Price: approx. $80
HKS - wash with soap & water, no oil. But expensive. (Flows more, filters less) Price: approx. $190
Filters found to loose no HP on the dyno: HKS Powerflow, Greddy, and Unifilter.
“Basically, we have found that all of the cone filters yield a couple of ponies at the flywheel no matter which brand. [When taking out] the factory intake resonator that lives under the factory airbox (behind the right lower turn signal), the car [just] feels better.”
Exhaust Systems:
Settle on a quality fabrication not the fashionable brand name of the time.
PRO: Small amount of real power added. Sounds and feels like more power. Necessary basis for other modifications to function with.
CON: None
My preference: Find what works for you, design you own with a good muffler.
Exhaust found to put out the best HP on the dyno: DC Sports, Greddy, and RSR.
It should be noted that for those going for maximum horsepower, an Dynomax Ultra-flow muffler with a custom 2-1/4″ pipe will produce more top end power, but at the cost of some bottom end power and good looks.
Wheels and Tires:
Use the plus one rule. What is the correct wheel and tire combination? Mugen recommends a 15 x 6 rim for best handling. Large and wide wheels (16″ x 6.5″ or 7″) with super low profile tires are definitely not the correct set-up. While this setup certainly looks great, having to deal with the downfalls such as darting, poor tracking and straight line stability far outweigh good looks.
Brand: Almost any Japanese import brand. Price: $1500 - $2500 (wheels and tires) Link: Dynamic Autosports => [Wheels & Tires]
Headers:
Header Designs include the 4 into 1 and Tri-Y. Although a 4 into 1 design will produce more ultimate horsepower, this only happens at very high RPM and is suitable for on track racing only. A Tri-Y will consistently produce more power throughout a broader RPM band. The best Honda headers are Tri-Y tuned. They can be identified by having cylinder 1 and 4 pipes join slowly into one pipe, and 2 and 3 pipes join. These two then join into one pipe just before hitting the cat.
Especially effective with a cam. Many headers are now 50 state legal!
PRO: Excellent pickup, especially with at high RPM.
CON: Very noticeable under the hood.
My preference: DC Fabrication - ceramic Price: approx. $250 (www.cyberauto.com) - $350
Cams:
Cam A huge number of cams are available. The cam increases valve lift and duration to give the engine more volume and time to breathe, especially at higher RPMS.
Most effective with a header.
PRO: Excellent pickup, especially with at high RPM.
CON: May void the factory warranty. Can destroy the valves and/or head if improperly installed. May cause decrease in MPG. May cause “smogability” problems.
My preference: JG Engine Dynamics 301 Price: approx. $200
Replacing the rubber Intake hose:
Intake pipe Replaces the rubber hose from the air box to the throttle body. It is rumored that the rubber hose may actually shrink or pinch in high horsepower applications, especially when hot. A metal pipe also allows a smooth path for air to flow through the throttle body. If you can’t make your own, get one custom made.
Brand: no recommendation. Price: approx. $80.00
Throttle body:
This involves the increasing diameter of the main port and throttle plate. More air is able to flow through the body and thus the engine produces more top-end power. I like to think of the increase of diameter inside the throttle body as having an effect similar to allowing the throttle pedal to move further through the floor.
Warning: Do not increase diameter over 4mm: Air velocity will drop and poor idle quality and loss of low RPM torque will occur. Idle problems may indicate an incorrectly set TPS, adjust per the Honda shop manual. Ensure the intake casting diameter is port-matched to the new throttle body diameter.
Brand: JG Price: approx. $160
Port / Polish:
This involves the increasing of diameter and smoothing in the head ports and intake casting. More air is able to flow through and thus the engine produces more top-end power.
Warning: Ensure intake casting diameter matches head intake port diameters. Take care in replacing the timing belt (don’t destroy the valve-train!)
Brand: Trusted Honda specializing machinist. Caution: A bad port job may make your car run slower. Price: approx. $800-900
Performance clutch:
MANDATORY for performance applications. What use is power if it can’t get to the ground? This would be true in high power applications where sticky performance tires are used, and especially with the use of NOS. It was rumored that the Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch is near worthless. The Honda clutch is too compact to have room for the weights, and I haven’t heard any good stories about that clutch. Don’t neglect to have the flywheel resurfaced and the throw-out bearing replaced.
Brand: I was able to purchase a then prototype Centerforce Dual-Puc design, through Jackson Racing. It was a Dual-Friction clutch without the easy engagement side, just two high temperature sides. It was not much heavier to the foot, and proved a “quick-gripper” and held up well to abuse and NOS. There are many good brands available, I’m sure Dynamic Auto Sports, RPS, or AEM, can supply you with a custom clutch that will suit your exact needs. See the FAQ for phone numbers of these shops. Price: approx. $300 + install.
NOS kit:
PROS: Lots of power added. Quick horse power gains are available at the push of a button. With NOS your in a different league.
CONS: Refills are $25. (10lb bottle = 12 runs.) May cause engine damage if used below 3000 RPM or above redline.
Recommendations: You MUST have a performance clutch! Use NGK spark plugs. According to N.O.S. the use of NO2 is only useful where your engine is not efficient. On a Honda that’s in the low Rpm’s, so shift around 5000. Experiment with the shift points, try not to squeeze in 1st gear ’cause all your power is just up in smoke. Don’t get greedy and go above 50% of stock power of the jets. Install a RPM switch so a squeeze cannot be made at RPM’s that will damage the motor. Install a remote bottle opener. (Great on the street!) Think about starting with the multiple jet system instead of the single fogger, in case your gonna get greedy for power.
Brand: Nitrous Oxide Systems. Price: approx. $500
Adjustable cam gear:
This gear allows the adjustment of the timing on the cam. This mod is not very useful on a SOHC (unless the head has been shaved to increase compression). However, on a DOHC the intake and exhaust cam profiles can be changed. This is actually not achievable with a simple cam change. For best results this mod should be dialed in on a dyno. (60k miles? Now is a great time to change the timing belt before that “rubber band” snaps and destroys the valves.)
Brand: Not a riveted stock conversion. Price: approx. $200 ea
The Chip:
The chip should be programmed for your current set of modifications to the car. Besides getting into a dyno and reprogramming session for each modification you add, I’m no longer recommending ANY chips. I’ve seen some of the dyno charts, and I’m not impressed with any chips. After a discussion with Javier at JG Engine Dynamics who is only recommending un-rev limited stock chips, I’m convinced the only worthy chip is a stock curved chip with the RPM limits raised. Apparently Dinan came down to Alhambra, with engineers and EPROM programmers to prove their chips to JG. After several runs on the dyno, a chip finally ‘produced’ power. Well almost, Dinan had put the stocker back in to check that the dyno was operating well. It seems that the stock chip has about as much timing and fuel as would be necessary for almost all Honda application.
Axxis Brake Pads will give the performance enthusiast superior braking power over the stock friction pads. The metal composition of the pads will give you that extra bite, more effective braking power at higher heat ranges, and reduced brake fading. These pads are great for the street. They don’t need to be heated up to a higher temperature range in order for it to work at it’s peak optimal efficiency. The pads will generate minimal dust build up and have a very minimal wear rate. Works great with your drilled brake rotors!
Brembo has developed a new line of high performance brake systems to replace the OEM calipers, rotors, and pads on high performance street cars. This upgrade will allow the owner to have higher braking performance capabilities. As some of you have experienced with performance vehicles that have been modified to extreme horsepower levels, stock brake systems often fall precariously short in their ability to stop repeatedly from high speeds. Known as fading, it is certainly an unwanted characteristic under any driving circumstance.
Power Slot Rotors are designed to maximize your braking performance while staying with the original equipment size rotors and brake pads. With its directional swept slots, the brake system is able to dissipate the hot brake gases that are emitted under all braking conditions. Results are better braking without compromising the structural integrity of the Brembo base rotors. 
These drilled brake rotors are now available for a wide variety of Japanese import application. These rotors are the exact same size as the factory rotors. This allows you to upgrade your rotors without upgrading to very costly brake calipers. Cross-drilled rotors will eliminate brake fade and also enhance braking in wet conditions. After several stops, spirited driving, and under emergency braking, they will perform better than your original brake components. Each rotor is drawn to scale and engineered with a specific drilled pattern. This data is then programmed onto a CNC (Computer Numerical Controlled) Machine. All holes are radiused to the correct wear limit. Radiusing, unlike chamfering, provides a smooth transition from rotor surface to the cooling holes. This reduces stress points and allows superior pad performance. All rotors are constantly checked for accurate balancing and are designed with a unidirectional pattern. A pair must consist of a left and a right rotor. All rotors are cadmium plated to military specifications for a high performance look while also protecting the machined areas from the elements. The Power Stop cross drilled rotors have been designed to be used on high performance vehicles but they are also extremely effective for practical street.
SMC is a local based California Tuner that offers these attractive high performance stainless braided brake lines. Stainless steel products are by far the highest quality material available in the market today. The qualities and properties of stainless steel allows these brake lines to resist heat build up, to prevent condensation from occuring, to eliminate possibility of hose cracking or bursting, and to allow maximum flow of pressure to the brake calipers when the brake pedal is depressed. Utilizing the best lines and fittings available from Goodrich, SMC has matched these stainless braided to the factory lines perfectly. All lines come ready to install and have all the correct mounting brackets to utilize the factory mounts. All lines will come in color coated synthetic skin to add an attractive and aggressive appeal.